From Garment to Fashion Production: An Analysis of the Evolution of the Apparel Industry in Brazil

AutorMarcelo Machado Barbosa Pinto - Yeda Swirski de Souza
CargoUniversidade Federal de Santa Maria, UFSM - Universidade do Vale do Rio dos Sinos, UNISINOS
Available online at
http://www.anpad.org.br/bar
BAR, Rio de Janeiro, v. 10, n. 3, art. 4,
pp. 304-322, July/Sept. 2013
From Garment to Fashion Production: An Analysis of the
Evolution of the Apparel Industry in Brazil
Marcelo Machado Barbosa Pinto
E-mail address: mpintomarcelo@yahoo.com.br
Universidade Federal de Santa Maria - UFSM
Cesnors UFSM, Av. Independência, 3751, Vista Alegre, 98300-000, Palmeira das Missões, RS, Braz il.
Yeda Swirski de Souza
E-mail address: yedasou@unisinos.br
Universidade do Vale do Rio dos Sinos - UNISINOS
UNISINOS, Centro de Ciências Econômicas, Avenida Unisinos, 950, 93022-000, o Leopoldo, RS, Brazil.
Received 26 August 2012; received in revised form 27 January 2013; accepted 4 March 2013,
published online 1st July 2013.
Editor’s note. José Pla Barber served as Associate Editor for this article.
From Garment to Fashion Production 305
BAR, Rio de Janeiro, v. 10, n. 3, art. 4, pp. 304-322, July/Sept. 2013 www.anpad.org.br /bar
Abstract
This study aims at contributing to the analysis of the evolution of apparel industry in Brazil by answering the
following questions: (a) Does global sourcing still explain the value upgrading process in the apparel production
chains?; (b) Are there new sources of value upgrading to be considered?; (c) Is the dynamics of the apparel
production pervaded by a phenomenon that is strongly related to a cultural and creative know-how? Two
theoretical approaches are considered to unveil the value upgrading process in the apparel production: (a) theory
about global va lue chains and (b) studies about cultural and creative industries. To investigate the research
questions we analyzed the case of the Brazilian apparel industry evolution through the use of a methodological
perspective nurtured by aspects of grounded theory. The findings of this study i ndicate that companies are able
to upgrade not only through improvements in manufacturing steps but also by means of incorporating elements
of cultural distinction in the apparel production. Analysis of the Brazilian case led us to propose an integrative
theoretical approach where elements of the global apparel value chains are combined with studies of cultural a nd
creative industries. We consider that an integrative approach can better explain value creation in the apparel
industry in a context of new markets, where there is not only the development of apparel manufacturing clusters
but also the emergence of a unique and local fashion apparel chain.
Key words: fashion; fashion apparel; global apparel value chain; fashion apparel value chain; cultural econo my.

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